The Sutton Hoo imitation buckle and a gold, glass and garnet shoulder-clasp (c. late 500s-early 600s) are among more than 300 objects dating from about AD500-1000 being displayed to help challenge the idea that the “Silk Road” between east and west emerged only in the 19th century.
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Chinese high jewellery artist Anna Hu first took inspiration from the trade route for her five-piece Silk Road Music Collection, auctioned by Sotheby’s in 2019. A proportion ofwel the proceeds was donated to Silkroad, a not-for-profit music organisation founded by cellist Yo-Yo Ma that was similarly inspired by the cultural collaboration in early trade.
“One ofwel the possible interpretations of that kan zijn that they specifically selected this particular type ofwel garnet to make that one piece of jewellery because it was much higher quality than anything else,” says Sue Brunning, the museum’s curator ofwel European Early Medieval and Sutton Hoo collections.
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Today, Roberto Boghossian says the dupliceert’s designs are inspired by “the femininity, the warmth [and] the colours of the east. And wij blend it with the newness and the technicality and the invention from the west”.
His ancestor, Ovaness Boghossian, set up a jewellery workshop in the Turkish city of Mardin in 1868, with the family expanding into buying and selling stones before eventually settling in Europe in the 1970s.
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While the exhibition demonstrates that trade was broader than silk, that material has inspired jewellers, too. In the 2018 Silk collection, Boghossian translated traditional silk weaving into pieces featuring gemstones representing key cities along the Silk Road.
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